China'S Subscription Boom &Nbsp; Are They Ready?

The Chinese Academy of Social Sciences and the Social Sciences Publishing House jointly issued the commercial Blue Book: China business development report (2009~2010) in Beijing in May 19th.

According to the blue book report, as of December 2009, the total consumption of luxury goods in China has increased to 9 billion 400 million US dollars, with a global share of 27.5%, and for the first time surpassed the United States, becoming the second largest luxury goods consumer in the world, after Japan.

It is estimated that in the next 5 years, China's luxury goods market will reach US $14 billion 600 million and occupy the first place in global luxury consumption.

In April 28th, LV, the global luxury brand, opened two flagship stores in Shanghai.

On the same day, the same city opened two flagship stores at the same time, which is a pioneer in the history of the brand in the past 150 years.

More and more international luxury brands are coming.

At present, most luxury brands are mainly located in the bustling areas of China's first tier cities and second tier capital cities, while flagship stores are generally built in first tier cities.

In recent years, with the increasingly fierce competition in the first tier cities, luxury brands have begun to accelerate their entry into some second tier and three tier cities with strong radiation capability in recent years.

In contrast to the domestic luxury consumption boom, high-end customization is heating up in China.

From the stage of China International Fashion Week, it is a hot topic for clothing designers to set up advanced ordering studios to the advanced order series of advanced garment brand extensions.

And how is the survival from star designers to high-end brands in the Chinese subscription boom? Are they ready?

Customization mode 1

Studio and star Designer

Christian Lacroix is considered one of France's most innovative fashion designers, but in 2009 he did not escape the bankruptcy of the company.

Why? Let's take a look at the designer's self analysis: "in the past 22 years, we have really gained popularity, but we haven't kept up with the commercial operation."

"I think we are more like a fashion house specializing in hand made fashion, rather than an international brand that must have many different products to occupy the world market," he said.

In the age of high fashion, it made money by selling unique clothing to wealthy customers.

However, the design of high fashion is increasingly regarded as a luxury brand fashion house displaying talented designers and a way to build brand awareness.

Sales of products with higher profit margins from high fashion releases, such as perfume, handbags and sunglasses, are the main components.

The sale of high fashion itself -- expensive handwork and tiny customer groups account for only a small part of the income of fashion companies.

The extension products of Christian llarowa, such as perfume and cheaper brands of garment accessory lines, were unsuccessful.

With the development of China's economy, high fashion is showing brilliance, while Chinese designers who focus on advanced customization even have no secondary line products, so that the higher order business with higher profits will give them greater room for survival.

In March 2010, He Guozheng, the famous designer of Hongkong evening dress, who entered the mainland market, has made a specific plan for the development of the brand: first, set up a senior dress ordering studio in Beijing, set up two high-end clothing brand stores in Beijing's high-end business district, and set up a brand shop in the Beijing high-end hotel.

We may as well look at the development trajectory of some of the leading designers in the field of advanced customization.

Zhang Zhaoda designed high fashion for LAYCE DESIGNS in 1989, founded the MARK CHEUNG brand in 1991, launched the advanced women's wear series, and launched its brand advanced series MARK CHEUNG HAUTE COUTURE in 2005.

Guo Pei, founded in 1997, Beijing rose Fang Fashion Co., Ltd., in November 2006, she held the first fashion fashion conference in China fashion week for the first time.

Marry Ma, who founded the MARYMA DESIGN women's clothing brand in 1998, set up her own fashion company in 2002, and launched the November 2005 fashion theme Conference on "red carpet" in November 2005, and its high fashion brand is officially available.

Before and after 2005, it was a node of the high ranking custom fashion in China.

Marry Ma, who became a designer from a famous model, chose advanced order as the direction of his future career.

"In the fashion circle for more than 10 years, contacting different groups makes me feel the prospect of advanced customization.

I am very lucky to have many friends around. When I chatted with them, I also talked about the business mode of making advanced orders, which was gradually affected by my subconscious. I realized that this is the way I should go, or my career.

After all, it is different from being a model, making a model after that road is over, and making advanced order is not blind and has strong persuasion.

In November 2006, on the Tenth China International Fashion Week, the publication of advanced customized fashion is undoubtedly the most beautiful chapter.

Guo Pei's high fashion is dominated by artistic expression and exquisite embroidery.

In particular, the Golden Dragon embroidery embroidered dress with a press shaft has been used for more than fifty thousand hours, which is amazing.

The dress also set an unprecedented record for China International Fashion week.

In 2000, Zhang Zhaoda first introduced the traditional costume culture with the fashion of high fashion. The inspiration of his senior fashion design was from the stamps of 56 nationalities in China.

5 years later, more Chinese designers are looking for ways to combine their advanced design styles with Chinese elements.

In the fashion week of 2006, Guo Pei's first high fashion was completely westernized. But in the details, many Chinese traditional patterns and even Royal patterns were used, so that their clothing showed the momentum of pcending regional and space-time.

There are many similarities and differences in Zhang Zhaoda's "Tibet" theme high fashion creation series. He used Tibet's traditional Thangka in various forms, such as printing and dyeing, embroidery, and so on, so that the clothing has a detached feeling.

In addition to using silk fabrics with Chinese landscape patterns, Qi Gang's high fashion ideas also add to the Chinese implication of the Chinese Pavilion pavilions, sandalwood fans and tassels in detail.

Today, celebrity effects and word of mouth communication have attracted the attention of star designers in the advanced custom market. This has also become a necessary means for custom designers to do business.

Guo Pei and Marry Ma in Beijing have their stable customer base with their connections in the entertainment industry.

Lu Kun, a designer in Shanghai, is expanding the business market in the way of brokers.

Those who have the strength to continue to join the ranks of customized design.

At the 2009 China International Fashion Week conference in Beijing, Guangdong designer Dong Huaiguang officially launched the TOM DONG high fashion custom brand.

This year, the TOM DONG high fashion custom design studio (Center) is officially operating.

"I have worked closely with international senior dresses and fashion brands over the years, and these experiences have earned me an international view and unique customization experience of high fashion fashion," he said, who is the design director of Zhongshan foundation Fashion Co., Ltd., which specializes in international high fashion and senior dress processing.

Customization mode two

Where does the brand extend?

In April 2009, when the financial crisis was at home and abroad, the first custom made studio in China was unveiled in Beijing.

The customized underwear business includes exclusive ordering, advanced customization and special demand customization. The exclusive customization is characterized by the custom-made service of the general public, its popular price plus personalized customization, the competitive advantage of price performance is very obvious, and it greatly increases the possibility of the interaction between the brand and the wider range of consumers.

Over the past year, the exclusive customization model with customized health will be promoted in the national exclusive stores.

Another brand worth mentioning is white-collar.

Since the birth of a white-collar brand, there has been a customized value-added service. It has been 16 years ago.

In today's white-collar sales, the percentage of sales is about 10% to 15%.

{page_break}

According to Fu Kui, director of white collar design, white collar custom business is divided into two parts -- custom-made orders and advanced orders.

Custom-made customers are ordinary customers who buy products in white-collar shops. The main reason for their customization is that they can not be dressed in white collar clothing products because of their size and so on.

The senior custom customers are mainly GOLDEN COLLAR customers. They are mainly business leaders, government officials, entertainers and so on.

They want to design individually, individually, individually and individually, paying great attention to the sophistication and process characteristics of garments.

"We will adhere to the custom-made service and the development of advanced customized business.

But the core business is still the expansion of garment business and clothing accessories business. "

Fu Kui said.

NE TIGER, a luxury brand in China, has put its series of products, including advanced orders, on the global platform.

In 2006, Zhang Zhifeng, the art director of the brand founder, put forward the theory of "the revival and burgeoning of Chinese luxury goods".

In the year, NE TIGER launched a highly customized clothing that is rooted in Chinese culture and is an innovative way to meet the needs of different consumers.

Today, NE TIGER covers a range of products, including fur, high order clothing, Chinese style wedding dress, evening dress, wedding dress, premium accessories and so on.

Customization mode three

Tailored service

In foreign countries, especially Britain, there is a strict distinction between the Bespoke of men's clothing and the meaning of Made-To-Measure.

Bespoke is the whole custom of men's suit (including body size, short inch, single edition, hand-made, semi-finished product). Custom made is the fabric and style chosen by the guests, but the clothing version is modified on the basis of the template according to the guest's shape.

At present, there are not many famous brands of hand-made men's formal wear such as Yongzheng tailor shop in China. Many brands in men's custom market are mostly engaged in business. But in terms of titles, they are all generally referred to in the name of advanced order.

In this case, Kevin Kelly, a senior clothing brand in the 2004, who was involved in the formal clothing market, found the opportunity. As a high-end menswear brand with service, it made many customers who wear Zegna suits only enjoy Kevin Kelly's service and become their fans.

And when it comes to men's clothing, Italy's Zegna brand is also indispensable.

In fact, Zegna's men's clothing service has always been the favorite of business people.

Zegna's largest flagship store in Asia is located at No. 18 the Bund, Shanghai.

The store has Couture Collection area, and specially tailored (Made-To-Measure) service room.

As early as the 70s of last century, Zegna set up its own factory in Switzerland.

Compared with the advantages of Zegna, it is not easy for domestic men's clothing to occupy a place in the high-end customized market.

But Kevin Kelly did it.

By providing a full range of personalized services and products for the segmented market, it breaks through the limitations of products and services, provides customers with image solutions and integrates with users, thereby improving customer retention rate and pursuing long-term customer lifetime value.

"Luxury goods in Italy or Europe speak of an aristocratic culture," said Xia, chief executive of the Yiwen group.

Our advantage is to understand the psychology of Chinese consumers, to get closer to their living conditions, to know what products they want and what services they want.

In addition, it is a circle culture, such as a housekeeper team going to the airport to pick up customers, bring the clothes he needs, etc., and we have also opened an emergency ordering service for our customers.

Kevin Kelly is fastidious about a caring service.

Market with challenge and opportunity

In the future, which consumer class will dominate the customized market? What crowd is China's luxury class? Zhang Zhifeng, the founder of luxury brands, said: "in China, the consumption class of luxury goods is by no means a single class.

China's huge consumer of luxury goods can be distinctly divided into several ethnic groups: the traditional blue blood aristocrats, who are the emblematic symbol of luxury consumption; the new successful people become the mainstay of luxury consumption; and the huge purchasing power of the middle class is increasingly becoming the main body of the luxury consumer market; another category is still a growing luxury "dream class".

They take the urban youth consumer group as the main body, and do not have the real luxury consumption level.

The proportion of these people is changing with the gradual maturity of the luxury market, but the changeless trend is the rapid upward trend.

Dong Huaiguang, a designer, said that in the new century, the Chinese fashion design showed a flourishing image. In inheriting the European tradition of high fashion, it also integrated many unique Chinese elements and appeared some very excellent high fashion designers.

"I believe that the consumption consciousness has sprouted, and China's sustained economic development should be a brilliant hope of the world's advanced custom fashions."

He stressed that high fashion should be close to the public.

"The world is changing. When we see the bleak shadow of Christian lacroy, I think the advanced order needs to be modernised with the times, especially in China, which lacks aristocracy and lacks advanced customized consumption history and culture."

Fu Kui said that with the continuous improvement of people's living standards, the size and depth of domestic women's clothing market will continue to expand and deepen.

For the domestic market, the famous advanced order brand is now a new way to develop garment products in addition to stabilizing its own advanced order business.

It will be a new challenge to improve the brand image with advanced clothing and order.

"With the invasion of the international brand, we compete with the international brands in the same market environment. Besides the time, place and place, we need a little confidence and innovation to make our brand bigger and stronger.

In the face of international brands, challenges and opportunities coexist.

link

Name and reality of high fashion

In 2009, Christian llarowa filed for bankruptcy protection due to the financial crisis.

In July of this year's Paris fashion week, the small fashion show was held with the help of his friends and tailors who worked for free.

In fact, the memory of Christian Clark and his high fashion left to Chinese people is not far away.

In 2005, as part of the closing art exhibition of the Sino French cultural year, the exhibition of Christian llaowa costume art was held at the Beijing Museum of Chinese art.

It showcases the two famous designers who have won the golden ceiling Award for the highest award of the French clothing industry for the past time, including 63 sets of high fashion, advanced garments, and some collections of French contemporary art, crafts and designers.

In 2009, compared with Christian's larrois, the fashion of Chinese high fashion was flourishing.

In November this year, China International Fashion Week was highly ordered, and 4 conferences were held in the name of high fashion or high fashion fashion. In fact, there were as many as 7 releases of advanced custom fashions.

In March 2010, China's international fashion week, He Guozheng, the famous designer of late wear in Hongkong, opened the door to the mainland market with his high fashion series.

Chinese designers interpret high fashion on their stage of fashion for less than 10 years.

In 2000, the first fashion show appeared on the stage of China International Fashion week. Zhang Zhaoda's 12/12/2000 fashion show was refreshing.

For nearly ten years now, Chinese people are no longer familiar with the name of high fashion or advanced orders. In China, whether in the fashion stage or in the market, "high fashion" and high-end customized titles become a piece of meat and potatoes.

But there are also people in the industry who doubt that the concept of high fashion or advanced customization is abused.

For Chinese people who have a better understanding of Western clothing history, when talking about high fashion, the first reflection in their minds is often the concept and image of Paris Haute Couture.

Zhao Qian, director of the Chinese High Fashion Association, has explained the definition of haute couture. In a sense, high fashion is actually a French definition, because only by the recognition of the French High Fashion Association is it eligible to be called "high fashion".

To get the title of "high fashion", we must satisfy the following requirements: first, there are workshops in Paris, which can participate in the two women's clothing exhibitions held in January and July each year by the French High Fashion Association. Secondly, at least 75 or more of the designs are completed by the chief designer. Besides, 3 full-time models are employed throughout the year. Finally, the number of clothes in each style is very few and basically finished by hand.

It meets the conditions listed above and can be named as "high fashion" after the approval of the French High Fashion Association.

It is obviously in accordance with the 1945 standards that the design of "at least 75 or more designs per exhibition should be completed by the chief designer".

This is almost impossible in the fashion show today. What is the standard of high fashion today?

Mr. Didier Grumbach, chairman of the Paris High Fashion Association, wrote in his book "fashion in person": "it is almost certain that no fashion shop can follow these criteria and definitions word by word until 1992.

Since its publication in 1993, "personal style" has long been a compulsory textbook for French higher education.

Grumbach described the rules of high fashion in the past: in the January 23, 1945 regulations, only those who belonged to "high fashion designer", "high fashion" or "creative fashion" were included in "high fashion". The list of qualified designers was published in the state organ of April 6, 1945.

The membership list of high fashion is managed by a special committee and is required to be approved by the Ministry of industry every year.

He also analyzed the path of Pierre Cardin, the most familiar French designer.

"As the head of a high fashion shop, relying solely on the strength of manual production is not enough to survive," he invented a more innovative business model along the lines of his predecessors, and moved towards an all-round way of empowerment.

"...

Soon, Pierre Cardin's design talent was drowned in the authorized network. His creativity was only reflected in high fashion, and this is also the most effective way to maintain his name.

Clothing is guaranteed by mass production to "minimum" production, and the only goal of high fashion is brand image. The irreconcilable conflict between them leads to the loss of the company and brand image, leaving only its star designers continue to flicker in solitude.

Despite this, high fashion has not vanished but developed itself in the integration with advanced garments.

"Since its establishment in 1973, the French High Fashion Association has been developing towards homogenization.

The advanced fashion brands, which are engaged in cross field operations, have gradually recovered their external production authorization and re controlled their garments series.

And in the field of senior garment designer brand, it has begun to incorporate advanced customized works into its design series, which aims to enrich and complete the fashion show. Some of their designers, such as La, Gore, Muller, have even set up their own custom studios.

This practice of brand diversification, which was originally engaged in single operation, caters to the pformation of fashion industry appropriately.

Dior, with the title of high fashion designer, does not also have the title of garment maker, conceptual pioneer and creative designer at the same time?

The French High Fashion Association launched a special membership system in the mid 90s of last century.

"The standard of the designers who have been absorbed: first of all, we must have manual customized business, but they can freely display their garments in the new product release, but they can not use the statutory title of" high fashion "established in 1945, and can only use the name" custom fashion ".

Grumbach wrote in his postscript to "visiting the fashion".

So, a Chinese fashion designer, Marco, presented his "luxury and poor" series of "useless" brands at the July 2008 Paris fashion week.

This is an artistic performance of an original costume, and all the costumes are made by Marco and her team.

"In short, the works produced by the most powerful ideas have become an essential condition for the tailor making of high fashion.

That is to say, if it is only at hand, or beyond the category of handicraft, no matter how much hours it takes, it can not be called high fashion.

It is obvious that an ordinary creative garment is only made by hand, which is called advanced customization.

In the new era, after a redefinition of high fashion custom, a key word is "creativity".

Zhao Qian said in an interview with our reporter.

voice

The international masters' fashion show is to show the height of artistic creation, which is in line with the original intention of high fashion.

High fashion is a dream made by a few people for most people.

"Mark Chang's creation" belongs to my personal artistic fashion.

Let many fashion designers find inspiration, make the media give recognition, and seek to connect with the market, this "trend publishing" path is more real and more vitality.

It is not that people have to wear "the Yellow River" on me. I have done the "trend publishing". This is because they do not know enough about the whole fashion system.

In November 2007, China International Fashion Week, Zhang Zhaoda released the the Yellow River theme high fashion creation series, which was accepted by our reporter in an exclusive interview.

In order to make advanced customization in China, customer service should be placed first.

I think a designer's style is in a secondary position.

This is different from foreign countries. Foreign countries are designing and guiding the market.

Our design is all inclusive, which is different from the international design.

For example, guests need stage costumes, we will consider the image, songs, performance style, even stage lighting background to design, we will do the design of the bride's costume, will do the design of Chinese dress.

We turn the advanced order into the nature of service.

Advanced customization in China is through professional services to meet the needs of customers.

{page_break}

In August 2006, Guo Pei talked about the difference between Chinese and foreign ordering when interviewed by our newspaper.

In fact, in 1991, I began to customize for the stars. At that time, many stars became my friends, and became my long-term customers, but not much.

Ordering is my dream and my enjoyment of design clothing.

In the future, I will take part of the energy and make the best order. This is my pursuit.

I need to stick to my personal style, and I can play with clothes in the custom-made field.

Ordering is more enjoyable than marketable products.

In November 2009, Liu Yang spoke to our newspaper reporters about his "moonlit night" theme dress series.

Although advanced customization originated in the west, the development of this market must be in the East and in China.

As for the stage of advanced customization in China, the concept and social level, including the level of education and culture, will have different effects on different stages.

China should not only develop its economy, but also develop its taste culture, so that it can be directly integrated into the international community.

In February 5, 2010, Marry Ma wrote his blog on the theme of "advanced customization in China" to explore whether the economic crisis has an impact on China's advanced customization and whether China lacks the right to speak for advanced customization.

Customization mode two

Where does the brand extend?

In April 2009, when the financial crisis was at home and abroad, the first custom made studio in China was unveiled in Beijing.

The customized underwear business includes exclusive ordering, advanced customization and special demand customization. The exclusive customization is characterized by the custom-made service of the general public, its popular price plus personalized customization, the competitive advantage of price performance is very obvious, and it greatly increases the possibility of the interaction between the brand and the wider range of consumers.

Over the past year, the exclusive customization model with customized health will be promoted in the national exclusive stores.

Another brand worth mentioning is white-collar.

Since the birth of a white-collar brand, there has been a customized value-added service. It has been 16 years ago.

In today's white-collar sales, the percentage of sales is about 10% to 15%.

According to Fu Kui, director of white collar design, white collar custom business is divided into two parts -- custom-made orders and advanced orders.

Custom-made customers are ordinary customers who buy products in white-collar shops. The main reason for their customization is that they can not be dressed in white collar clothing products because of their size and so on.

The senior custom customers are mainly GOLDEN COLLAR customers. They are mainly business leaders, government officials, entertainers and so on.

They want to design individually, individually, individually and individually, paying great attention to the sophistication and process characteristics of garments.

"We will adhere to the custom-made service and the development of advanced customized business.

But the core business is still the expansion of garment business and clothing accessories business. "

Fu Kui said.

NE TIGER, a luxury brand in China, has put its series of products, including advanced orders, on the global platform.

In 2006, Zhang Zhifeng, the art director of the brand founder, put forward the theory of "the revival and burgeoning of Chinese luxury goods".

In the year, NE TIGER launched a highly customized clothing that is rooted in Chinese culture and is an innovative way to meet the needs of different consumers.

Today, NE TIGER covers a range of products, including fur, high order clothing, Chinese style wedding dress, evening dress, wedding dress, premium accessories and so on.

Customization mode three

Tailored service

In foreign countries, especially Britain, there is a strict distinction between the Bespoke of men's clothing and the meaning of Made-To-Measure.

Bespoke is the whole custom of men's suit (including body size, short inch, single edition, hand-made, semi-finished product). Custom made is the fabric and style chosen by the guests, but the clothing version is modified on the basis of the template according to the guest's shape.

At present, there are not many famous brands of hand-made men's formal wear such as Yongzheng tailor shop in China. Many brands in men's custom market are mostly engaged in business. But in terms of titles, they are all generally referred to in the name of advanced order.

In this case, Kevin Kelly, a senior clothing brand in the 2004, who was involved in the formal clothing market, found the opportunity. As a high-end menswear brand with service, it made many customers who wear Zegna suits only enjoy Kevin Kelly's service and become their fans.

And when it comes to men's clothing, Italy's Zegna brand is also indispensable.

In fact, Zegna's men's clothing service has always been the favorite of business people.

Zegna's largest flagship store in Asia is located at No. 18 the Bund, Shanghai.

The store has Couture Collection area, and specially tailored (Made-To-Measure) service room.

As early as the 70s of last century, Zegna set up its own factory in Switzerland.

Compared with the advantages of Zegna, it is not easy for domestic men's clothing to occupy a place in the high-end customized market.

But Kevin Kelly did it.

By providing a full range of personalized services and products for the segmented market, it breaks through the limitations of products and services, provides customers with image solutions and integrates with users, thereby improving customer retention rate and pursuing long-term customer lifetime value.

"Luxury goods in Italy or Europe speak of an aristocratic culture," said Xia, chief executive of the Yiwen group.

Our advantage is to understand the psychology of Chinese consumers, to get closer to their living conditions, to know what products they want and what services they want.

In addition, it is a circle culture, such as a housekeeper team going to the airport to pick up customers, bring the clothes he needs, etc., and we have also opened an emergency ordering service for our customers.

Kevin Kelly is fastidious about a caring service.

Market with challenge and opportunity

In the future, which consumer class will dominate the customized market? What crowd is China's luxury class? Zhang Zhifeng, the founder of luxury brands, said: "in China, the consumption class of luxury goods is by no means a single class.

China's huge consumer of luxury goods can be distinctly divided into several ethnic groups: the traditional blue blood aristocrats, who are the emblematic symbol of luxury consumption; the new successful people become the mainstay of luxury consumption; and the huge purchasing power of the middle class is increasingly becoming the main body of the luxury consumer market; another category is still a growing luxury "dream class".

They take the urban youth consumer group as the main body, and do not have the real luxury consumption level.

The proportion of these people is changing with the gradual maturity of the luxury market, but the changeless trend is the rapid upward trend.

Dong Huaiguang, a designer, said that in the new century, the Chinese fashion design showed a flourishing image. In inheriting the European tradition of high fashion, it also integrated many unique Chinese elements and appeared some very excellent high fashion designers.

"I believe that the consumption consciousness has sprouted, and China's sustained economic development should be a brilliant hope of the world's advanced custom fashions."

He stressed that high fashion should be close to the public.

"The world is changing. When we see the bleak shadow of Christian lacroy, I think the advanced order needs to be modernised with the times, especially in China, which lacks aristocracy and lacks advanced customized consumption history and culture."

Fu Kui said that with the continuous improvement of people's living standards, the size and depth of domestic women's clothing market will continue to expand and deepen.

For the domestic market, the famous advanced order brand is now a new way to develop garment products in addition to stabilizing its own advanced order business.

It will be a new challenge to improve the brand image with advanced clothing and order.

"With the invasion of the international brand, we compete with the international brands in the same market environment. Besides the time, place and place, we need a little confidence and innovation to make our brand bigger and stronger.

In the face of international brands, challenges and opportunities coexist.

Name and reality of high fashion

In 2009, Christian llarowa filed for bankruptcy protection due to the financial crisis.

In July of this year's Paris fashion week, the small fashion show was held with the help of his friends and tailors who worked for free.

In fact, the memory of Christian Clark and his high fashion left to Chinese people is not far away.

In 2005, as part of the closing art exhibition of the Sino French cultural year, the exhibition of Christian llaowa costume art was held at the Beijing Museum of Chinese art.

It showcases the two famous designers who have won the golden ceiling Award for the highest award of the French clothing industry for the past time, including 63 sets of high fashion, advanced garments, and some collections of French contemporary art, crafts and designers.

In 2009, compared with Christian's larrois, the fashion of Chinese high fashion was flourishing.

In November this year, China International Fashion Week was highly ordered, and 4 conferences were held in the name of high fashion or high fashion fashion. In fact, there were as many as 7 releases of advanced custom fashions.

In March 2010, China's international fashion week, He Guozheng, the famous designer of late wear in Hongkong, opened the door to the mainland market with his high fashion series.

Chinese designers interpret high fashion on their stage of fashion for less than 10 years.

In 2000, the first fashion show appeared on the stage of China International Fashion week. Zhang Zhaoda's 12/12/2000 fashion show was refreshing.

For nearly ten years now, Chinese people are no longer familiar with the name of high fashion or advanced orders. In China, whether in the fashion stage or in the market, "high fashion" and high-end customized titles become a piece of meat and potatoes.

But there are also people in the industry who doubt that the concept of high fashion or advanced customization is abused.

For the Chinese people with a better understanding of the history of Western clothing, the first reflection in the mind is often the concept and image of the Haute Couture in Paris.

Ms. Zhao Qian, the director of the Chinese District of the French high fashion guild, once explained the definition of high fashion: in a sense, the high fashion is a French definition, because it is qualified to be called "high fashion" only by the recognition of the French high fashion guild.

To get the title of "high fashion", we must meet the following conditions at the same time: first, there are studios in Paris to participate in the two women's dress displays held in January and July by the French High Fashion Association; secondly, at least 75 more designs are designed by the chief designer each time; in addition, more than 3 full-time models are employed perennial; and, finally, the number of styles of each style is minimal and basically finished by hand.

It meets the conditions listed above and can be named as "high fashion" after the approval of the French High Fashion Association.

It is obviously in accordance with the 1945 standard that only the "design of at least 75 pieces of presentation is done by the chief designer".

This is almost impossible in the fashion show today. What is the standard of high fashion today?

Mr. Didier Grumbach, chairman of the Paris High Fashion Association, wrote in his book "fashion in person": "it is almost certain that no fashion shop can follow these criteria and definitions word by word until 1992.

Since its publication in 1993, "personal style" has long been a compulsory textbook for French higher education.

Grumbach described the rules of high fashion in the past: in the January 23, 1945 regulations, only those who belonged to "high fashion designer", "high fashion" or "creative fashion" were included in "high fashion". The list of qualified designers was published in the state organ of April 6, 1945.

The membership list of high fashion is managed by a special committee and is required to be approved by the Ministry of industry every year.

He also analyzed the path of Pierre Cardin, the most familiar French designer.

"As the head of a high fashion shop, relying solely on the strength of manual production is not enough to survive," he invented a more innovative business model along the lines of his predecessors, and moved towards an all-round way of empowerment.

"...

Soon, Pierre Cardin's design talent was drowned in the authorized network. His creativity was only reflected in high fashion, and this is also the most effective way to maintain his name.

Clothing is guaranteed by mass production to "minimum" production, and the only goal of high fashion is brand image. The irreconcilable conflict between them leads to the loss of the company and brand image, leaving only its star designers continue to flicker in solitude.

Despite this, high fashion has not vanished but developed itself in the integration with advanced garments.

"Since its establishment in 1973, the French High Fashion Association has been developing towards homogenization.

The advanced fashion brands, which are engaged in cross field operations, have gradually recovered their external production authorization and re controlled their garments series.

And in the field of senior garment designer brand, it has begun to incorporate advanced customized works into its design series, which aims to enrich and complete the fashion show. Some of their designers, such as La, Gore, Muller, have even set up their own custom studios.

This practice of brand diversification, which was originally engaged in single operation, caters to the pformation of fashion industry appropriately.

Dior, with the title of high fashion designer, does not also have the title of garment maker, conceptual pioneer and creative designer at the same time?

The French High Fashion Association launched a special membership system in the mid 90s of last century.

"The standard of the designers who have been absorbed: first of all, we must have manual customized business, but they can freely display their garments in the new product release, but they can not use the statutory title of" high fashion "established in 1945, and can only use the name" custom fashion ".

Grumbach wrote in his postscript to "visiting the fashion".

So, a Chinese fashion designer, Marco, presented his "luxury and poor" series of "useless" brands at the July 2008 Paris fashion week.

This is an artistic performance of an original costume, and all the costumes are made by Marco and her team.

"In short, the works produced by the most powerful ideas have become an essential condition for the tailor making of high fashion.

That is to say, if it is only at hand, or beyond the category of handicraft, no matter how much hours it takes, it can not be called high fashion.

It is obvious that an ordinary creative garment is only made by hand, which is called advanced customization.

In the new era, after a redefinition of high fashion custom, a key word is "creativity".

Zhao Qian said in an interview with our reporter.

The international masters' fashion show is to show the height of artistic creation, which is in line with the original intention of high fashion.

High fashion is a dream made by a few people for most people.

"Mark Chang's creation" belongs to my personal artistic fashion.

Let many fashion designers find inspiration, make the media give recognition, and seek to connect with the market, this "trend publishing" path is more real and more vitality.

It is not that people have to wear "the Yellow River" on me. I have done the "trend publishing". This is because they do not know enough about the whole fashion system.

In November 2007, China International Fashion Week, Zhang Zhaoda released the the Yellow River theme high fashion creation series, which was accepted by our reporter in an exclusive interview.

In order to make advanced customization in China, customer service should be placed first.

I think a designer's style is in a secondary position.

This is different from foreign countries. Foreign countries are designing and guiding the market.

Our design is all inclusive, which is different from the international design.

For example, guests need stage costumes, we will consider the image, songs, performance style, even stage lighting background to design, we will do the design of the bride's costume, will do the design of Chinese dress.

We turn the advanced order into the nature of service.

Advanced customization in China is through professional services to meet the needs of customers.

In August 2006, Guo Pei talked about the difference between Chinese and foreign ordering when interviewed by our newspaper.

In fact, in 1991, I began to customize for the stars. At that time, many stars became my friends, and became my long-term customers, but not much.

Ordering is my dream and my enjoyment of design clothing.

In the future, I will take part of the energy and make the best order. This is my pursuit.

I need to stick to my personal style, and I can play with clothes in the custom-made field.

Ordering is more enjoyable than marketable products.

In November 2009, Liu Yang spoke to our newspaper reporters about his "moonlit night" theme dress series.

Although advanced customization originated in the west, the development of this market must be in the East and in China.

As for the stage of advanced customization in China, the concept and social level, including the level of education and culture, will have different effects on different stages.

China should not only develop its economy, but also develop its taste culture, so that it can be directly integrated into the international community.

In February 5, 2010, Marry Ma wrote his blog on the theme of "advanced customization in China" to explore whether the economic crisis has an impact on China's advanced customization and whether China lacks the right to speak for advanced customization.